My time in Rutsiro is coming to a close. I’m not quite sure how I’ll come to grips with that.
It’s difficult to imagine life without the sounds of a village waking up around me each morning. The cries of small babies, the playful joy of young children, the bleat of goats, the chatter of greetings and conversations echoing across the valleys.
We’d just begun a steep ascent when my moto driver yelled over the strain of the engine, “Elisabeth, how do you say: ‘umukobwa afite ibilo’ in English?”
“Umukobwa afite means ‘the girl has’ but I don’t know ibilo,” I shouted back. I thought I’d heard the word before but wasn’t sure of it’s meaning.
My driver helped, “like munini.”
Ah! “Big,” I said. “So umukobwa afite ibilo probably means ‘the girls has weight, the girl is fat.’ Like she has many kilos.”
“Yes!” my driver shouted, “Ibilo is many kilos! Wowe ufite ibilo.” You have many kilos.
“Yes,” I said succinctly, “I do.”
When you live in a rural village and people laugh as they tell you the place you want to visit is actually rural…you know you’re in for an adventure.
When moto drivers refuse your business because the place you want to go is kure, kure [too far], you’ve got a problem. When they finally accept but charge an arm and a leg, you better know your reason for going is good.
I hopped into the back of my friend’s SUV, glad to have a free ride back home. I’ve become rather well adjusted to riding on motos for nearly two hours in a stretch, but I still prefer the stability of four wheels when I can get it.
We were about to pull away when my friend noticed a mama on the side of the road with a baby wrapped in her arms. Lowering the window, he called out and asked where she was going. Murunda, she responded. The same as me.
I made plans with my two nearest PCVs, Matt and Casey, to go to Kibuye. A nice chance to connect after our first week alone at site.
As the trip neared, I was so nervous about navigating the travel on my own that I nearly backed out. But I wanted that Christmas package waiting at the post office and I knew I was going to have to face traveling sooner or later.
I woke the morning of my trip and washed my dishes so they wouldn’t sit dirty for two days. I packed a simple overnight bag and locked my doors.
For those who don’t have the luxury of a private vehicle when traveling in Rwanda (aka most of the population and visitors), there are some key phrases you should learn first:
Buretse ndavamo! [Wait, Let me off!]
Gabanya umuvuduko shoferi we! [Driver, slow down!]
Gabanya volume! [Turn down the volume!]
Mfungurira idirishya, harashyushye! [Open the window, it’s hot!]
Ngarurira [Give me my change]
Urambyiga! [You squeeze me!]
Know these and your adventure may be moderately more comfortable…and safer!
Once you learn those, it’s time to consider your many travel options:
Detour Scenery 